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Re[2]: Scratchbuilt ships...

From: Flak Magnet <flakmagnet72@y...>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:20:34 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Scratchbuilt ships...

Responses interspersed below.

-- 
Best regards,
 Flak				
 Hive Fleet Jaegernaught
 http://www.geocites.com/flakmagnet72

Wednesday, January 09, 2002, 5:13:23 PM, B wrote:

BL> One other technique is to use some sort of filler for the gaps. 
Squadron Putty is adequate for large gaps, but is not fluid enough for
smaller gaps - it tends to "roll" and you have to really
BL> squish it in to get it to stick.  Tamiya filler is stickier, but
sometimes, it is too sticky.  If you get in on other surfaces where you
don't want it it's tough to scrape off.

I think I might try wood filler.  Some brands (minwax, I think) have a
very fine grain, and they promise to have no shrinkage.  It's also
very soft when dry and will therefore be easer to clean up after it's
dry by carving, sanding or scraping.  Ideally though, I will just try
to be more careful (now that I've tinkered around and I'm learning
some techniques) and just make things for right the first time, nice
and square.

BL> The disadvantage to puttys is that you usually have to go back and
clean up the joint - either cutting down the excess and sanding or
applying another layer because of shrinkage of the compound
BL> when drying.

See above about trying wood filler.

BL> If the gap is small enough, some white glue will help seal it off,
although the glue has a tendency to shrink quite a bit when dry. The
advantage is that you can use either a small syringe or
BL> toothpick to get the glue in which tends to make it cleaner than
globs of putty.

On 28mm models, I used zap-a-gap superglue.  That would be too thick
and messy on these.  I don't want to use white glue though, not enough
patience, so I think I'll try the testor's glue I have that's safe for
clear plastic.	It's a "bulky" glue when dry, and therefore my have
similar uses as PVA(white glue) without the wait.

BL> As for sanding small fiddly bits - emery boards.  Having a stiff
backing gives you more of a flat edge and emery boards are small enough
that you can still hold the piece in one hand or in
BL> forceps and be able to sand it and look at it easily. You can get
emery (fingernail) boards at most pharmacies in a couple of roughness
grades.  For plastic, I would recommend the finer grades.

Used them last night.  MUCH better results.  I have one I acquired
from a Sally's Beauty supply (US chain of stores) that has four grits
and it 1" wide.  VERY handy.

BL> The more expensive alternative is a set of Jeweler's files.  I
recently bought a few sets from e-bay for about $6.00 plus S/H for a set
of 8 files.  Don't forget to get a brass brush to clean the
BL> files off from time to time.

I have some of those, but found the "teeth" would bite into the
plastic and guide it right off the side of the file, so I'll stick to
the emery boards.

BL> --Binhan

Thanks for your input.	Though I'm sure it looked like went out of my
way to find an alternative to most of your
suggestions, you brought up things I hadn't thought of yet, and now
when I need to do certain things I'll already have a plan.

--Flak

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