Re: Airbrushes II

> Do airbrushes only operate with acryclics? Seems to me that they'd
work on
> alkyd (oil) based paints also (like the Humbrols) [snip]

An airbrush should work fine with these mediums.  Though I seem to
recall that
these can be rough on the internal rubber o-rings, causing them to
break-down
far sooner than normal.

> I have found brake fluid reasonably good for stripping
[snip]

This subject has been talked to death in the past.  Let's see if we can
nip it
in the bud before it gets out of hand.	Just about anything corrosive
will strip
paint from a model, especially if it hasn't been sealed.
Steps to take:
1 - fill a container with your solvent (mason jars are good, and provide
a
evaporation free environment)  .
2 - submerge model in solvent, let soak at least 24 hours, a few days is
good.
3 - remove model and scrub with old toothbrush, it's a good idea to
rubber
gloves so your hands don't get eaten up by the solvent.
4 - repeat above if paint still adheres to model.
5 - rinse model with warm soapy water to remove any solvent which might
remain,
your model is now ready to prime.
Note - All original color may not be removed (depending on solvent and
length of
saturation) but should be sufficient to be re-primed.

Solvents:
Paint Thinner - Works pretty good, evaporates quickly so make sure your
container is air tight.  Not safe for plastics.
Brake Fluid - Works well, safe on plastic models should be ok for resin
too.
I've found it difficult to clean from the model (leaves oily film).
Pine Sol (pine oil?) - Best I've found, non-toxic and eco-friendly. 
Safe for
plastics and resins.  Caution, contact with skin will cause extreme
drying a
hour or so latter, wear gloves
409 - I've heard of people using this, but haven't tried it myself. 
Ought to
work fine, should be safe for plastics and resin.

There I think that's got it, but maybe not.