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Re: [SG]?Styrofoam walls...

From: Donald Hosford <hosford.donald@a...>
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 21:40:40 -0500
Subject: Re: [SG]?Styrofoam walls...

Samuel Reynolds wrote:

> If possible, you might want to use something heavier for the base,
> to make it less likely to fall over. You could, for example, base
> the sections on metal bases, around 10 x 40mm or 1/2 x 2". Wargame
> Accessories bases come in  cost 5-25 cents (US) each, depending on
size. And
> they're very thin, so you could get away with larger ones for
> more stability--figures have little problem standing partially
> on the base and partially on the table, which could be a problem
> with corrugated cardboard bases. Not to mention that you'd need
> to get some air-dry clay or something to fill the ends of the
> cardboard bases.
>

Hadn't thought of the metal bases!

>
> Krylon "Living Colors" primer works great on Styrofoam (doesn't
> eat it!). The "Living Colors" line is water-based, and doesn't
> use the toluene propellant their regular paints use. It runs
> about $3-$4 per 11 oz spray can.
>    If you want a nice, smooth wall, a couple coats of this
> on cut styrofoam (i.e., it starts out fairly smooth) does pretty
> well. Or "paint" the foam with thinned PVA (white) glue first to
> fill the gaps, sand lightly on a flat surface, then primer it
> with whatever primer you like. (A "tacky glue" such as Aleene's
> is preferable to Elmers.)
>    For rougher walls, "paint" the foam with PVA (un-thinned) and
> roll it in a box of sand or (unused!) cat litter. After it dries,
> "paint" it with thinned PVA to set it, then primer and paint.
>
> You can create details (windows, doors, etc.) on the computer screen,
> print them out, cut them apart, and glue them on (thinned PVA under
> and over them). If you want them to stand out from the wall surface,
> you can glue individual items to thin card or (my preference) scrap
> photo mat board. Straight pipes can be just thread glued in place,
> or use scrap electrical wires for larger and/or bent pipe.
>
> When you're all done, be sure to give it a protective coating.
> I prefer Xylene clear polyurethane spray (c. $4/11 oz can).
> It provides a very tough, glossy coating. Two light coats of this
> on my minis (painted with acrylics) make them as tough as if they
> were painted with enamels. A light spray (or brush application)
> of dull coat or matte finish kills the gloss for a more "realistic"
> appearance.
>
> - Sam
> ________________________________________
> Samuel Reynolds
> Spinward Stars: http://www.spinwardstars.com/
> Reynolds Virtual Workshop: http://www.primenet.com/~reynol
> reynol@primenet.com
> samuel_reynolds@csgsystems.com

Thanks for the info!

Donald Hosford

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