Re: [GZG] Carrying around figures

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Gzg-l mailing list
Gzg-l@lists.csua.berkeley.edu
http://lists.csua.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gzg-lI just sent off 50
25-mm soldiers to thialand for painting. I shipped them 
off in a Chessex case.
However, for use I think I am going to use a Sabol Desgns Armytransport 
case. Infantry,
25mm vehicles, rules and dice all in one case. I may even be able to fit
DS 
stuff in as well.

I use the post method for starships, but I just use smaller tubing on
the 
ship and larger on the base.

I'm not sure where to buy white metal bases since GeoHex went away.

Roger

On 9/15/05, Thomas Barclay <kaladorn@magma.ca> wrote:
> 
> For SG2 25mms, I find nothing beats the Chessex 80 figure box. Grey 
> plastic, two layers of
> 40 figures worth of space each. Not so hot for 28mm, but great for
true 
> 25mm. I must have
> five or six of these, and I've got orders out for another six.
> 
> For vehicles in 25mm, I find often times, a cardboard box with foam 
> packing peanuts (hint:
> keep a big box at home, dump all smaller loads of foam peanuts that
arrive 
> with things you
> get shipped into it... it becomes the reservoir) is the best option. 
> Vehicles can have odd
> shapes, antenna, etc. so you need a really configurable cushioning 
> material. Only caveat:
> Some forms of dullcoat (Testers? Armoury?) and some forms of paint
seem 
> to, if left
> overnight or for longer periods in such storage, like to adhere to the

> foam. Sometimes it
> might take an x-acto to get it off and that can take a wee bit of
paint 
> with it. It's
> either that or something in some of the resins is still outgassing and

> making the paint
> tacky on some of my stuff. <shrug> But if you just store it like this
to 
> transport it for
> the day, then take it out, you're good.
> 
> For ships:
> 
> Eggshell material is the best, and some figure boxes use it. But the 
> absolute best is
> mounting the ships right the first time! Dispense with the supplies 
> plastic bases (aaargh)
> and go and get some round metal bases (white metal is ideal). Then
drill 
> them with a
> dremel and install square brass tubing. Someone here must have some
links 
> to some pix of
> the technique.
> 
> Essentially, you get two sets of brass tubing that barely fit within
one 
> another. One
> smaller, one larger. The square tubing is better because once mounted
on 
> the base, the
> figure does not spin (which it often will on round tubing shafts). You
cut 
> about 1 1/4"
> length for the shaft from the larger tubing, and mount it into the
round 
> white metal or
> steel base with some plastic metal or epoxy or the like.
> 
> You cut a shorter chunk of the larger tubing (say about 1/4") and that

> part is attached to
> the ship. Now where does the smaller tubing come in? A short length of
it 
> is either
> attached to the stand by gluing it inside the larger tubing or doing
the 
> same on the ship
> side. Just be consistent.
> 
> You end up with (pardon the ascii art)
> 
> ================ <---- Ship
> || || <---- larger tubing, secured into ship
> | | <---- Smaller tubing, secured either into ship or base
> || ||
> | |
> | | <--- larger tubing, secured into base
> | |
> ---------- <-- Base
> 
> 
> That diagram is a bit exaggerated because when the ship rests fully 
> installed, the two
> larger square tubing sit on one another. The smaller tubing acts as
the 
> pin in the middle.
> By using square tubing, and mounting with a bit of thought, the ship 
> always stays
> correctly oriented on the base for 12 o'clock. (With round tubing,
they 
> tend to spin...)
> 
> Advantages:
> 1) Large flat ships like ESU and FSE transport MUUUUCH easier.
> 2) You don't need as many bases as ships (Just enough for 1-2 fleets!)
> 3) You can remove bases for transport
> 4) By using a larger white metal base (they're about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" 
> diameter), you get a
> bit more stability
> 5) By building some different height posts, you can get some 
> tough-to-overlap ships to
> overlap, and you have dynamic control of which ship sits at which
height.
> 
> I've seen other fancy methods involving screw or clasp connectors, but
I 
> like this because
> it is a simple slide fit. Not much to go wrong. Just cut the tubing 
> smoothly (I use a
> dremel and a wee bit of sandpaper afterwards for burs) so you get cuts
at 
> 90 degrees. And
> be consistent on where you glue the smaller tubing (into the ship or
into 
> the base)
> 
> It takes some work, but in the end, the transportability of fleets
goes 
> waaaay up.
> 
> 
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