RE: [OT notice] Glue for plastic to metal?

Surface area and roughness also play a role in adhesion, so make sure
you lightly sand the surfaces you are going glue together or possibly
build up more surface area using one of the epoxy putties.

For my multi-media (resin/plastic/pewter) models I usually go with epoxy
as I find that superglue is a bit brittle.  There is the additional
problem that if the model is exposed to a range of temperature
conditions - i.e. 70 degree room to freezing trunk of car, attached
items like spears, guns, turrets or tracks will pop off due to the
differential contraction between the metal and the plastic.

In general I find that 5-minute epoxy is adequate and useful as you can
wait 2-3 minutes and it forms a thicker gel that you can then apply to
the section you want without it running away on you.  The down side is
that you only have a minute to apply the piece and clean off the excess
before it becomes a gooey mess.

--Binhan

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gzg-l@lists.CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
[mailto:owner-gzg-l@lists.CSUA.Berkeley.EDU]On Behalf Of
laserlight@quixnet.net
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 7:30 AM
To: gzg-l@csua.berkeley.edu
Subject: RE: [OT notice] Glue for plastic to metal?

>What glues from modern choices should I use for Tamiya plastic to 
metal?	
>After all the glue-sniffing scares is there a better glue for	plastic
(Tamiya) to plastic (ESCI) work then your basic "aircraft model  glue"?

The key question is "what plastic is it?"  If it's polyethylene, IMHO no
glue is going to work well.  PE feels waxy and slick; it's the same
stuff
gallon milk jugs are made of.

If it's styrene (more likely) then pretty much anything should work
okay. 

I wouldn't recommend airplane cement because it's a solvent, works by
partially melting the pieces.  You'd do better with epoxy or superglue
or
something like that.

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