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Re: Modelling Q and a big thank you

From: Sindre Cools Berg <cobos@s...>
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 00:08:21 +0100
Subject: Re: Modelling Q and a big thank you

David Tan wrote:

> I've used 100% industrial strength Acetone and it's great as a paint
> stripper and glue disolver.  Use outdoors, don't breath in the fumes
and
> avoid skin contact.  This stuff is deadly but effective.  The paint
within
> minutes just floats off. Wicked stuff. I have used it to free up 1/300
> armour where turrets have been attached with cyanoacrylate glue.
>
> Cheers
> Dave Tan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Barclay of the Clan Barclay [mailto:kaladorn@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, 7 February 2000 17:07
> To: GZG List
> Subject: Modelling Q and a big thank you
>
> Two items:
>
> 1) A big thank you to persons forgotten (but list-ites for certain)
who
> recommended brake fluid to strip unwanted paint from minis. I stripped
> some olive green primer (eeeeyecchhh) from some FSE figs to replace it
> with my preferred primer using this method and was surprised with the
> degree of effectiveness. A big thanks to all who recommended this (way
> back when this came up last)!
>
> 2) Question: I now have said FSE figs... they are mounted on about
1/4"
> diameter, 1/8" thick steel washers with (presumably) cyanoacrylate
style
> glue. I find this leads to problematic squad spacings (too big) and
> makes figs tough to move in the forest. I want to mount them on
pennies
> (oops, don't tell the gov't ... it might be a felony)... as they give
a
> better base size. NOW the $64 Question: Is there a commonly available
> solvent or other substance that will easily loosen cyanoacrylate?  I
> want to remove these washers as painlessly as possible and using a
> grinder or some other "overkill" method seems likely to lead to some
> form of pewtercide... so I cast my bread upon the waters of the list
and
> await some informed answers. Speak ye, list-ites, on what chemical may
> solve my problem! <No, Mr. McCarthy, cyanide or sedatives are not
> acceptable answers....>
>
> Thanking you all in advance!
>
> Tom B
> (BTW, you could please mail me offlist at kaladorn@home.com with any
> bright suggestions... needless to say any less-than-bright suggestions
> can be mailed to /dev/null... *grinning good naturedly*)
>
> --
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> "Good? Bad? I'm the guy with the gun." - Ash, Army of Darkness
>
> Homepage: http:\\fox.ntsn.ca\~kaladorn\index.html
> ICQ: 58316640 (Tomin8tor)
>
> "Ah. I see. Inform me if there is any change in his condition."
> <hangs up the phone>
> "How is he?"
> "He's dead."
> -- The movie Top Secret

Just to shoot in a dose of my own experiences with Acetone (or propanon
for us
chemistry buffs :). I'll agree it is extremely efficient, but as long as
you
use pure acetone it isn't that dangerous, just ask most organic
chemists, they
use it almost as water :) But seriously it is very good because you can
then
easily wash off the paint as was said and also it is excellent for
removing the water off the now clean module as it solves the water and
it
evaporates at around 40 degress celcius so you just shake the mini and
it is
perfectly dry.. I would say you can use it inside too but just make sure
you
get a few breaths of fresh air every now and then, and your skin gets a
dry
after some exposure to it.... Of course you should be aware it is highly
flamable..

Now CH2Cl2 that is dangerous.... :) (and also at times even better than
acetone)

Sindre
(Hope this wasn't too OT)
--
All Birthright fans try the new and now
OFFICIAL BR Fan site: www.birthright.net

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