Re: [SG]?Styrofoam walls...

>My brother and I resently bought some computer speakers, and some of
the
>packing seemed useable for my starwars stormtrooper mini's.
> I have three pieces of styrofoam sheet about 1/4" thick, by about
6.25"
>wide, by 15.75" long.
>I was thinking of using it to make some modular interior walls.  I
could
>base each wall section on some corrigated cardboard, and cover them
with
>paper so I could decorate 'em.
>
> Does anyone have any other, or better ideas?	 Has anyone heard of
>anything similar?
>
>Any help acceptable.
>
>Donald Hosford
 
If possible, you might want to use something heavier for the base,
to make it less likely to fall over. You could, for example, base
the sections on metal bases, around 10 x 40mm or 1/2 x 2". Wargame
Accessories bases come in  cost 5-25 cents (US) each, depending on size.
And
they're very thin, so you could get away with larger ones for
more stability--figures have little problem standing partially
on the base and partially on the table, which could be a problem
with corrugated cardboard bases. Not to mention that you'd need
to get some air-dry clay or something to fill the ends of the
cardboard bases.
 
Krylon "Living Colors" primer works great on Styrofoam (doesn't
eat it!). The "Living Colors" line is water-based, and doesn't
use the toluene propellant their regular paints use. It runs
about $3-$4 per 11 oz spray can.
   If you want a nice, smooth wall, a couple coats of this
on cut styrofoam (i.e., it starts out fairly smooth) does pretty
well. Or "paint" the foam with thinned PVA (white) glue first to
fill the gaps, sand lightly on a flat surface, then primer it
with whatever primer you like. (A "tacky glue" such as Aleene's
is preferable to Elmers.)
   For rougher walls, "paint" the foam with PVA (un-thinned) and
roll it in a box of sand or (unused!) cat litter. After it dries,
"paint" it with thinned PVA to set it, then primer and paint.
 
You can create details (windows, doors, etc.) on the computer screen,
print them out, cut them apart, and glue them on (thinned PVA under
and over them). If you want them to stand out from the wall surface,
you can glue individual items to thin card or (my preference) scrap
photo mat board. Straight pipes can be just thread glued in place,
or use scrap electrical wires for larger and/or bent pipe.
 
When you're all done, be sure to give it a protective coating.
I prefer Xylene clear polyurethane spray (c. $4/11 oz can).
It provides a very tough, glossy coating. Two light coats of this
on my minis (painted with acrylics) make them as tough as if they
were painted with enamels. A light spray (or brush application)
of dull coat or matte finish kills the gloss for a more "realistic"
appearance.
 
- Sam
________________________________________
Samuel Reynolds
Spinward Stars: http://www.spinwardstars.com/
Reynolds Virtual Workshop: http://www.primenet.com/~reynol
reynol@primenet.com
samuel_reynolds@csgsystems.com