Re: [ECC] Stuart's Painting Clinic

Ted said:
> Since I didn't get to attend the ECC, I'm rather keen to hear about
Stuart's mini painting clinic.	Several folks threatened to post their
notes, but ...

I'm actually about 2/3 of the way done transcribing (they're not that
long, but I've helped start a newspaper since ECC...)--here's the
synopsis.

I. Concepts:
a. You are painting wargame pieces, not painting contest entries.  You
do not need to blend colors nor paint eyelashes.
b. Give the impression of camo (and other details) rather than actual
camo.
c. Smaller figures require stronger contrast to make details visible.

II. Preparation
a. good strong light (daylight, architect's desk lamp)
b. good brushes (OOO, OO, O, 1).  Long bristle brushes are generally
better than short--they hold shape better and hold more paint.	You
can also use cheap brushes for drybrushing, and cosmetic latex sponge
wedges for vehicles or other large surfaces.
c. primer spray (cellulose auto primer, black or white); inks (GW or
equal); acrylic paints; clean water; archivist fine line pen (0.2mm);
magic wash (1part Future floor wax, 3-4 parts water)
d. popsicle sticks, tongue depressors or similar to use as a handle
while figures are being painted.
e. clean flash and mold lines from minis and wash them to get mold
release compound off.

III. General painting techniques
a. do not paint from the container--you'll get paint in the ferrule of
your brushes, which ruins them.  Paint from the cap or pour some onto
a palette.
b. wash your brushes frequently--swish them through the water, don't
grind them on the bottom.
c. after you wash your brushes, point them by rolling the bristles on
your tongue (cowards can also roll them on a crease of your palm but
it doesn't work as well)

IV. Painting minis
a. prime black (if you want a realistic look) or white (for heroes and
others who should have a "clean" look)--make sure you change the angle
of the mini so you get full coverage
b. if you primed black, drybrush white
c. give your figure a coat of your base color, but thin the paint so
it's milky--you don't want to hide the contrast between black low
spots and white high spots
d. ink the low spots with a darker shade of the base color (eg with an
olive base, use dark green, not black).
e. damp brush with the base color
f. dry brush with a lighter shade of the base color (eg sage green,
not white)
g. add details like camo speckles, webbing, shoulder patches if you're
up to it, etc
h. blackline the details you want to stand out, using the archivist
pen at cuffs, belts, pocket seams and flaps, etc
i. wash with Magic Wash "with ink to taste"--(haven't tried that yet,
I'm going to start with 1 part brown ink to about 8 parts wash, and
try it first on figs that I'm prepared to strip and repaint if
needed).

V. Presentation
a. paint and flock the base
b. a gloss coat protects better; a matte coat looks better on most
military figs.	You can always do both--apply gloss, then matte.
c. put on a wargame table