RE: Paint Removal

I've used pure technical acetone at the organic chemistry lab, and at
least
the way we treated it there, acetone didn't seem to dangerous to me...
My
skin got a bit dry after I've washed beakers and stuff in for about 30
minutes though.. but the casual use was no problem, and the pure stuff
doesn't smell anything really at least after my own experience... But of
course I might have gotten more damage to my brain than I first thought
:))

I'll try to get hold of a few liters of it when the semester starts, and
do
some testing myself, then I can tell you what I found out....

Sindre

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
> [mailto:owner-gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU]On Behalf Of
> bbrush@unlnotes.unl.edu
> Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 4:37 PM
> To: gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
> Subject: Re: Paint Removal
>
>
>
> I've done Pine-sol, and various others, but IMO they take too long and
> don't do a good enough job.  I now use pure acetone and a toothbrush. 
It
> will take about 5 minutes at most.  The one thing you'll need to
> be sure of
> is to use it with plenty of ventilation.  I usually take mine outside
when
> I need to strip a mini.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> John,
>
> If you used acrylics, Pine Sol, Easy Off Oven Cleaner, or brake fluid
will
> do the
> trick.  Just let 'em soak in whatever you choose for awhile, then take
a
> toothbrush
> and running water to it.  I've been using the oven cleaner lately, and
it
> works
> great.
>
> Mark
>
> John Fox wrote:
>
> > Hello Everyone:
> >   Attempted to paint a Kra'Vak a lime green with a black
> undercoat.  Came
> out
> > looking like crap.	How do I get the dried paint off without hurting
the
> metal?
> >
> >   John W. Fox
> >
>
>
>
>