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RE: [EFSB/B5W] Vorchan stand mounting

From: "Tim Jones" <Tim.Jones@S...>
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:43:51 +0100
Subject: RE: [EFSB/B5W] Vorchan stand mounting



>want to permanently attach it). The metal stand post peg is much too 
>small to fit snugly in the stand hole on the ventral fin, as are the 
>pegs of any other kind of stand that I have, so how on Earth (or 
>Centauri Prime) do I mount it?
>

The nested brass tube method (Schoon et al): 

"
I got GW flying bases - they are available in small (25mm) and large
(60mm)
varieties. When ordering from GW, make sure to tell them not to include
the
posts; it will save you 50% !! Use the small ones for small ships and
fighters, and the large ones for anything that you're worried might tip
over.

Next, head out to a hobby shop and get either brass tube or brass
squares
in three different sizes that will fit snugly into one another. For
fighter
bases you'll also need some small diameter brass rod (I think 1/16th).
For
smaller ships, use the two smaller sizes for the following steps, and
for
larger ships, use the two larger.

Cut 35mm and 5mm sections of the larger "tube," and a 15-25mm section of
the smaller. The 35mm section gets epoxied into the GW clear circular
base.
Put the 5mm section over the smaller piece, and epoxy both into the
miniature's mounting hole. Make sure that they're perpendicular BEFORE
the
epoxy sets.

Now you have a figure that can be put in the stand for play, and taken
out
for transport or storage. In fact, you only need enough lower stands to
fit
as big of a battle as you expect to play, as they're interchangable
(with
the exception of small vs. large dia.).

They have no angles or markers, so you'll need "rings" for during play,
but
on the other hand, they look really classy, and no matter how many times
they change the rules, you never have to change bases again
"

The necklace clasp method (Keith):

"
  First, I always sand off the thinner top part of the post (the part
that
goes into the model) and replace it with a necklace barrel clasp.  After
super gluing it to the post, I super glue the other end to the model.
After the super glue is dry, I put epoxy where the clasp meets metal (of
the model and of the post).  In this way, the glue gives you a quick
(but
brittle) bond, which holds everything in place long enough for the epoxy
to set.  The result is very strong and also allows the model to be
removed
from the base for storage.  Oh, remove the little hoops from each end of
the clasp, of course, but also use super glue gel - the standard stuff
runs down the edges and glues the clasp together!

 Second, for my scratchbuilt fleet I used 1 1/4" flat washers and 3/8"
piece of metal tubing (the same diameter as the hole in the washer). 
Glue
the tubing to the base and put a piece of epoxy putty in the top of the
tubing and push the bottom of the necklace clasp into the putty.  I made
a
a template to put the 12-hour marks on the base.  Works pretty well,
looks
nice, and like the first, it allows the model to be separated from the
base for storage.
"

-= tim jones =- 


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