Re: Custom Mini Moulds

Okay, here's a weird thought. Has anybody ever worked with that stuff
from the hardware stores for dipping tools into? I believe it's a rubber
or plastic or something. I don't know how flexible it is, so I don't
know
if it would be any good for making a mold. I just thought I'd ask.

On Sun, 01 Mar 1998 23:35:11 +1100 "Bruce S. R. Lee" <bsrlee@wr.com.au>
writes:
>Making 2 peice moulds is not hard. When you are making the modeling 
>clay
>base for the model to be pressed into, just use a blunt instrument to 
>make
>a few vaguely conical or 1/2 round dimples in the corners. When you 
>make
>pt.2 just ensure that the rubber flows into the holes - you don't even 
>have
>to worry too much about air bubbles in the hole really, just enough to
>locate the pieces. 
>
>If you have problems with surface bubbles, buy some of the cheap nylon
>paint brushes that are sold in bargain stores for little kids to play 
>with
>- usually a card of 10 or so brushes. I then used this to paint the 
>rubber
>onto the model and work it into the detail ensuring a complete skin - 
>you
>still have the inevitable small bubbles in the body of the mould but 
>these
>are less of a problem. 
>
>This has worked for me for some time, but I now have access to a 
>vacuum
>chamber to de-air my rubber, and when I get off my backside, the resin 
>for
>25mm vehicle models (I'm using 1 piece main moulds with a non detailed 
>plug
>of silicone to reduce the ammount of resin). 
>
>IMHO small models are easier cast in tin/lead - I have scrounged old 
>pewter
>from charity stores and keep all my trimmings - you get a hard model 
>but
>the detail is ok & you don't burn the mould like happens if you use 
>pure
>lead - these lead figures are the ones you see with dud paint jobs and
>blobby detail for sale at small cons.
>
>
>You can also save about a teaspoon of rubber when making moulds for 
>lead by
>making a basic pouring gate of clay and attaching it to the clay pad.
>
>

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